UNDERSTANDING THE LIPID BARRIER, WHY IT BREAKS, AND HOW TO FIX IT
What is the Skin Barrier?
Your skin barrier is the outermost layer of your skin — a protective shield made up of lipids (fats), dead skin cells, and natural moisturizers. Its job is to:
- Keep moisture in
- Keep irritants, allergens, and pathogens out
- Help regulate skin health and appearance
This layer is selectively porous, meaning it allows some beneficial molecules in while blocking harmful ones out. However, this layer is delicate — and easily disrupted by everyday aggressors.
Signs Your Skin Barrier is Damaged
- Dryness or flakiness
- Redness and inflammation
- Sensitivity to skincare products
- Burning or stinging sensation
- Tightness after cleansing
- Breakouts or rough texture
What Damages the Skin Barrier?
Your barrier can be compromised by both lifestyle and skincare choices:
- Environmental stressors (smog, smoke, pollution)
- Harsh cleansers, exfoliants, and soaps
- Overuse of AHAs, BHAs, or retinoids
- Essential oils and fragrance
- Dirty makeup brushes
- Yeast or fungal overgrowth
- Hand sanitizers that disrupt the microbiome
The Skin Microbiome & Barrier Health
A healthy barrier works in harmony with your skin’s microbiome — the ecosystem of beneficial bacteria living on your skin.
- Prebiotics feed the good bacteria (e.g., xanthan gum)
- Probiotics are the live bacteria that support balance
- Postbiotics are the proteins and peptides produced by microbes that strengthen and support barrier function
This synergy helps your skin stay resilient, hydrated, and calm.
Lipids: The Foundation of a Strong Barrier
Lipids are the mortar in your skin’s “brick-and-mortar” structure. The key lipids include:
- Ceramides
- Cholesterol
- Fatty acids & EFAs (Essential Fatty Acids)
When these are out of balance, keratinocytes (your skin cells) stop producing lipids in proper ratios — leading to weakness, irritation, and poor moisture retention.
Never Skip Barrier Repair Before Actives
Before introducing acidic ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, or retinoids, make sure your barrier is strong and intact. Otherwise, actives can penetrate too deeply and cause inflammation, dehydration, and even long-term damage.
How Do Ingredients Penetrate If the Barrier Is Intact?
With healthy skin, only certain molecules get through — which is exactly what we want. We use targeted delivery systems to transport ingredients into specific layers without compromising the barrier.
How to Repair and Strengthen the Skin Barrier
1. Slugging with Occlusives
Occlusion helps trap moisture and allows keratinocytes to produce more lipids. Try:
- Vaseline, if you are acne prone
- Our ONERTA CREAM BARRIER, if you are not acne prone
Slugging overnight with Vaseline can begin repairing the barrier within 16 hours.
2. Support with Barrier-Building Ingredients
Look for products rich in:
- Multiple ceramides (especially for mature skin)
- Phytosterols (plant cholesterol)
- Stearic acid
- Omega-rich oils (kukui, borage, cranberry, safflower, sunflower)
- Rosehip oil
- Vitamin E (tocopherol)
3. Avoid Lipid Oxidation
Lipids are highly oxidizable. Exposure to:
- Air
- UV
- Pollution
- Tobacco smoke
...can break down your skin’s natural oils, making them rancid and ineffective. Oxidized lipids can clog pores and cause inflammation. This is why polluted environments often worsen acne or sensitivity.
Use antioxidants like vitamin C ( our META C SERUM) and only use fresh, preserved oils to protect and stabilize your lipid layer.
4. Hydration & Soothing Rituals
- Facial steaming
- Misting with hydrating toners, try our HYDRATING TONER
- Layering humectants + occlusives
These steps support barrier recovery and reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
Did You Know?
Some people are born with a compromised barrier. Sensitive skin is often linked to genetics and an underperforming lipid layer — which makes daily barrier support essential.
Barrier Repair Essentials for Your Routine
Look for formulas that combine:
- Ceramides (multiple types)
- Cholesterol & phytosterols
- Stearic acid
- Antioxidants (tocopherol, sterols)
- Plant-based oils: kukui, borage, cranberry, safflower, sunflower, rosehip
These create total barrier recovery and prevent long-term damage.