In today’s skincare culture, the term “purging” is used far too loosely, and often as a convenient explanation for skin that is simply reacting poorly to a product.
To be clear: after introducing appropriate prescription or exfoliating products, the skin should begin to move toward improvement. While some already-formed microcomedones may continue to surface as part of normal turnover, the skin should look progressively clearer, not suddenly more inflamed, more congested, or equally reactive week after week.
In my clinical experience, when breakouts become more numerous, more irritated, or fail to begin stabilizing within the expected adjustment window (4–6 weeks), the skin is actually reacting to the product or the routine. This pattern reflects irritation, barrier disruption, or product incompatibility, and not beneficial clearing.
Skin does not need to significantly worsen in order to improve.
When breakouts escalate instead of stabilizing within the expected adjustment window (4–6 weeks), the routine should be reassessed rather than pushed forward.
What Actually Happens to Comedones
What many people call “purging” is often the skin reacting to a product rather than the skin beneficially clearing.
With appropriate exfoliation and proper routine support, existing comedones typically begin to dry, loosen, and resolve over time.
You may observe that:
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some comedones surface and become easier to extract
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some shed naturally with normal cleansing and physical exfoliation (scrubbing)
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very early microcomedones gradually dissolve
What should not happen is a steady increase in new, inflamed breakouts.
When acne becomes more numerous or more irritated after starting a product, the skin is usually signaling distress rather than productive clearing.
What I Recommend Instead of “Pushing Through” unecessary breakouts:
If the goal is smoother, clearer, and more stable skin surface, the approach should be controlled exfoliation with barrier respect, not aggressive overcorrection.
Here is how I guide clients in the treatment room.
For Rough Texture (Most Skin Types)
Start with professional, measured exfoliation that supports turnover without overwhelming the skin.
Helpful options include:
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Zinc Mask with Goji Berry Prebiotic to remove pore sludge, calm and rebalance
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Mandelic Meta Serum for gentle chemical resurfacing
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Glycolic Toner for controlled surface renewal
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Thermal Peel Mask for periodic deeper refinement
These support smoother texture while helping maintain barrier stability.
For Congestion and Acne-Prone Skin
When breakouts are present, exfoliation should be paired with targeted antibacterial support.
In these cases, I often incorporate:
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Acne Gel (benzoyl peroxide) for active breakouts
- Acne Wash for active breakouts and oily, rough skin
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Mandelic-based exfoliation to keep pores clearer
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Retinol for accelerated skin turnover
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Zinc Mask with Goji Berry Prebiotic to help calm inflammation
The goal is steady clearing without triggering additional irritation.
For Aging or Mature Skin
Mature skin often benefits from the same gentle exfoliation approach outlined above, with the option to layer in retinol when appropriate and well tolerated.
Retinol can help support:
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cellular renewal
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texture refinement
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overall skin resilience
but it should always be introduced gradually (2–3 times a week at night) and with barrier awareness.
For Physical Exfoliation
When physical exfoliation is desired, it should be fine, controlled, and not aggressive or overused.
I typically recommend:
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Mandelic Scrub with hydrogenated Castor beads in moderation, per skin tolerance
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a gentle Daily Cleanser with rounded Jojoba beads to maintain consistent turnover
Physical exfoliation should complement the routine, not dominate it!
