Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common and most misunderstood skin concerns I see in the treatment room. Not all dark marks are the same, and not all respond to the same approach.
Before reaching for stronger actives, it’s important to understand what type of hyperpigmentation you’re dealing with and whether your skin barrier can tolerate correction.
THE MOST COMMON TYPES OF HYPERPIGMENTATION:
-Sun Freckles & Solar Lentigines
These are among the most common forms of pigmentation I see.
They develop from cumulative sun exposure over time and tend to appear in areas that receive the most UV exposure.
Common triggers:
- chronic sun exposure
- inconsistent sunscreen use
- tanning history
What it looks like: small to larger flat brown spots, often on the cheeks, nose, forehead, chest, shoulders, knees and hands. These typically respond well to consistent sun protection and controlled exfoliation, but prevention is key, because they will deepen easily with continued UV exposure.
-Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
These are the dark marks left behind after:
- breakouts
- irritation
- over-exfoliation
- skin picking
What it looks like: flat brown or gray-brown spots where inflammation once occurred. PIH usually responds well to consistent, gentle correction, especially when the barrier is kept calm and supported.
-Melasma
Melasma is more complex and often hormonally influenced.
Common triggers:
- sun exposure
- heat
- hormonal shifts
- inflammation
What it looks like: diffuse, patchy pigmentation, often on cheeks, forehead, or upper lip. Melasma requires a slow, barrier-respectful approach. Aggressive treatments often just make it worse and trigger rebound pigment.
-Hyperpigmentation-Prone Skin
Some clients don’t have visible dark spots yet, but their skin pigments easily after even mild inflammation. Also, skin of deeper tones is naturally more reactive to inflammation and more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Even minor irritation, over-exfoliation, or untreated breakouts can lead to prolonged discoloration.
For these skin tones especially, pigment correction must be approached gently, with careful attention to barrier health, controlled exfoliation, and strict sun hygiene.
This is the skin that darkens quickly after:
- minor breakouts
- friction
- procedures
- overuse of actives
These clients benefit most from preventive, intelligent exfoliation, not aggressive correction.
SUN HYGIENE: THE NON-NEGOTIABLE STEP
No pigment protocol works without strict sun habits, and even the best corrective products will not work well if UV and heat exposure continue to trigger melanocytes.
Daily essentials:
- consistent broad-spectrum SPF
- reapplication when outdoors
- hats and shade when possible
- heat awareness (often overlooked in melasma)
In my practice, sunscreen is not optional, it’s truly foundational.
INGREDIENT STRATEGY THAT RESPECTS THE BARRIER
When treating hyperpigmentation, the goal is not to “attack” the skin.
It’s to normalize cellular turnover while keeping the barrier calm and functional.
For melasma-prone skin
Think brighten + gently renew + protect the barrier.
Key approach:
- Vitamin C (morning support)
- Mandelic acid (controlled exfoliation)
- Retinol (evening cell turnover, but introduced gradually)
This combination supports gradual pigment improvement without triggering rebound inflammation.
For hyperpigmentation-prone or PIH-prone skin
Prevention and consistency matter most.
The Mandelic Trio is especially helpful for:
- clients who pigment easily
- post-breakout marks
- uneven tone
- sensitive or reactive skin types
Mandelic acid’s larger molecular size allows for more measured exfoliation, making it ideal for skin that cannot tolerate aggressive acids.
WHAT ABOUT HYPOPIGMENTATION?
While most clients are concerned with dark spots, some experience the opposite, areas where the skin loses pigment.
Hypopigmentation can occur after:
- Inflammation
- Tanning beds
- Fungal infections
- Autoimmune conditions
- aggressive treatments
- certain procedures
- skin injury
What it looks like: lighter patches compared to the surrounding skin.Hypopigmentation is more challenging to correct and often requires medical care rather than topical treatment alone. True hypopigmentation rarely resolves completely, especially when melanocytes are significantly damaged or absent.
The best strategy is prevention, protecting the skin barrier and avoiding unnecessary inflammation, especially tanning beds.
A CLINICAL REALITY CHECK
It takes time to resolve pigmentation issues. Most clients see meaningful improvement over 8–16 weeks of consistent care, sometimes longer for melasma, for which currently there is no “cure”.
THE BIBA APPROACH
In my treatment room, successful pigment correction always comes back to three things:
- barrier integrity
- controlled exfoliation
- disciplined sun habits
When these are in place, the skin can gradually return to a more even, calm appearance.
SHOP THE ROUTINE
